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In the mirror, I seem to have on oversized golden pantaloons, perceptible exclusively in my view. Kids play in a stone basin imitating mermaids, and in the next room rests a talking pea in a exhibition box, next to a towering pile of cushions. It represents the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s widely adored storytellers. I'm visiting the city of Odense, situated in Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to explore the writer's timeless impact in his birthplace a century and a half after his death, and to experience a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

Andersen's House is the town's exhibition space celebrating the author, incorporating his childhood house. An expert notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on the author's tales. His personal history was explored, but Thumbelina were nowhere to be found. For tourists who come to this place in search of storytelling magic, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redesign of Odense city centre, diverting a primary street, made it possible to rethink how the local celebrity could be honored. A prestigious architectural challenge granted the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the project, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the structure. The unique wooden museum with connected spiralling spaces opened to much acclaim in 2021. “We’ve tried to create a space where we avoid discussing Andersen, but we speak in the manner of the storyteller: with humour, satire and outlook,” says the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “The outdoor area for strollers and for colossal creatures, it's planned to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a challenge accomplished by clever planting, playing with elevation, proportion and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

Andersen wrote several autobiographies and regularly provided conflicting accounts. The exhibition embraces this concept seriously; frequently the views of his companions or snippets of written messages are shown to politely doubt the writer's personal account of happenings. “The author is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the expert. The outcome is a compelling whirlwind tour of his personal story and art, thinking patterns and best-loved stories. It’s provocative and playful, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a bonus underground fantasy realm, the pretend town, for the youngest visitors.

Visiting the Town

Back in the actual city, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and old wooden houses finished in vibrant hues. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the street signals show the writer with his distinctive top hat, metal shoe prints offer a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this focus reaches its height with the annual HC Andersen festival, which honors the his influence through art, dance, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the week-long event had 500 shows, the majority were without charge. As I explore the city, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, ghoulish monsters and an author double narrating adventures. I listen to contemporary performances and see an remarkable evening show including graceful performers descending from the town hall and dangling from a construction equipment. Still to come during the season are talks, hands-on activities and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s yearly wonder event.

Each wonderful fairytale destinations deserve a palace, and the island contains numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

Like most of Denmark, bicycles are the perfect means to get about in this town and a “bike path” winds through the urban core. Departing from my accommodation, I pedal to the public waterside bathing area, then beyond the city for a loop around Stige Island, a compact territory connected by causeway to the larger island. Local inhabitants have outdoor meals here following their day, or enjoy a tranquil moment angling, paddleboarding or taking a dip.

Back in Odense, I eat at a local eatery, where the menu is based on Andersen themes and stories. The poem the patriotic piece is featured during my meal, and proprietor the restaurateur recites passages, presented in English, as he serves every dish. It’s an experience repeated often in my days in the city, the island inhabitants appreciate narratives and it feels as though narrating is continuously available here.

Manor House Visits

All good magical places require a palace, and the island features numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island. Traveling briefly from town, I visit Egeskov Castle, Europe’s best-preserved historic fortress. Although large sections are open to visitors, this historic site is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the royal resident. I ponder if she would notice a pea through a pile of {mattresses